MM: 235.5
Trail Miles: 22.1
Miles Walked:22.1
Yesterday I passed the 200 mile point. I have officially exceeded the distance I did on the John Muir Trail (JMT) in 1997.
Our cowboy camp spot at the wind farm was protected from the wind and I slept all right. When I woke at 0540 there were 2 hikers going by, already on the trail, and 3 other hikers cowboy camped within a 20 yd radius. Slim and I were up and gone by 0620.
It was an uphill day. Going from just above the desert floor to 6100 ft, we were entering the San Bernardino Mountains. While I prefer climb over descents, it was challenging. I was feeling the effects of the 26-miler yesterday.
When I finally reached the first water stop, in the Whitewater Preserve, it was like heaven. The Whitewater River winds down between arid desert mountains. There were pools big enough to wade and sit in. There were a few hikers already there. Everyone stripped on to their skivvies and got in. It was the closest thing to a shower or laundry we’d had since Idyllwild 3 days before. That doesn’t sound like a long time, but when you’re wearing and sweating in the same clothes day after day, modesty is a luxury easily forgotten.
It was a weekend so there were a lot of day hikers out. It was fun to chat with them. Thru hikers are easily identifiable, by sight, smell and filth. Day hikers are easily identifiable by the same markers – or lack of them.
We stopped at a virtual oasis around 2pm. There was shade and a creek. Slim and I wound up talking with Smoke Beard (from RI) and Larry. Larry had hiked the PCT in 2017 – the epic year of Fire & Ice. The Sierras (and really all CA mountains) had record snowfall, 250% above average. Ice Axes and Crampons were required safety equipment then. And when the snow melted, it turned cricks and streams into raging torrents. In fact, 2 hikers died last year during river crossings. Not to be outdone, Oregon then caught on fire and burned in July and August. We had lots of questions for her (Larry is her trail name). She had a a lot of good advice and said several things that really resonated. One being, don’t be so married to your ‘plan’ that you can’t adjust. She’d had to flip-flop portions of the trail due to the fires, but she’d completed it in one season. (Flip flop is when you skip ahead/north and then hike south/back to where you flip flopped from.). She has a really cool blog worth checking out: laniadvokat.com
(Truth: Her blog is way cooler than this one. Please don’t abandon me!)
Smoke Beard & Larry
Anyways, I realized once again the desert, while pretty, is also brutal. The heat. The sun. It’s just unrelenting. Fortunately the trail followed Mission Creek up a valley. As we regained elevation the temps relented and I started seeing aspen trees. You could also see the damage and wash outs from last years record snow melt.
We eventually pulled into campsite around 1900. It was full – 12 hikers in a spot for 3 tents. Everyone was nice and made room for us.
Looking forward I’m glad I won’t see the desert floor again for a week. Hiking during the heat of the day is miserable. Plus my sun umbrella suffered its final blow during some gusty winds. My desert strategy is going to involve siestas from now on. (Any excuse for a nap!)